Dhulikhel-Namo Buddha-Panauti Hike

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During this long Dashain-Tihar break I along with my friends of IOE, Pulchowk Campus planned for a hike. After a long discussion we came up with the hikeria (self coined word for hiking area :P) and the date, 23rd October 2011. And we chose NamoBuddha a common pilgrimage for Hindus and Buddhists all around the world. We'd planned the route of Kahtmandu-Dhulikhel-NamoBuddha-Panauti-Kathmandu for our hike.

On 23rd I woke up early morning at 6, had tea and hurried to Purano Buspark. From the bus park we(I and my 4 other friends) took bus to Dhulikhel and on the way to Dhulikhel at SuryaBinayak we picked up rest of our friends. I don't remember the exact time but it was around 8:30 when we reached Dhulikhel Bus Park (we departed from Kathmandu at around 7).

For our breakfast we had a cup of tea, two doughnuts and a boiled egg. Then we started our hike. 

We walked through the Dhulikhel Bazaar-a traditional Newari village way to Devi Temple. To reach Devi Temple we had to climb thousand stairs and on the way we stopped at Shanti Ban (meaning Peace Forest in English). Shanti Ban, a cool place forest with a huge statue of Gautam Buddha.

        

As seen from entrance

Statue of Buddha in Shanti Ban

From there we continued our hike to Kali Temple climbing more stairs and finally reached the Devi Temple. The Kali Temple is inside an army barrack (I forgot the name of the barrack).

This way!

Religious weapon Trishul (Trident) at Kali Tempe

Statue of Kali Temple

After short rest at Kali Temple we walked towards NamoBuddha. Sometimes slowly and sometimes quickly, sometimes down the hill and sometimes up the hill we were heading to our destination. After walking  for about three and half hours we were hungry so, we bought some packets of noodles and we had to pay 20 rupees for a packet (5 rupees extra). Then after walking for about half an hour we reached our destination, the holy NamoBuddha. Till the time we had reached NamoBuddha all of us were starving.

Kitchen of the inn!

So, we stopped in a local Inn to have something. Half of us (including me) ordered for Nepali set i.e. Rice, curry, lentil, pickle including dried meat and the rest of half ordered Buff Chowmein. 

                      

After having lunch we walked headed towards the holy Stupa of NamoBuddha. I was very happy to be in the place of which I had heard the story which is as follows:

The Ancient Story of Namo Buddha

A long time in the past, many immeasurable eons ago, our teacher the perfect Buddha was practicing on the path of learning. Below is the story of how he was overcome with compassion when he saw a  tigress tormented by starvation and offered his body to her without a moment’s hesitation. 

In the distant past, there lived in this world a king named Great Charioteer (Shingta Chenpo) who ruled over a small kingdom of some five thousand subjects. Due to the king’s accumulation of merit, all his subjects enjoyed happiness and well being; rains came at the right time while crops and livestock flourished. The king had three sons: the oldest was named Great Sound (Dra Chenpo), the middle Great Deity (Lha Chenpo), and the youngest Great Being (Semchen Chenpo). Powerful in the martial arts and radiating confidence, the two elder sons always helped the king in governing the kingdom. From his earliest years, the youngest son, Great Being, was very bright and endowed with spontaneous kindness and compassion. He gave freely and generously to others as if to his only child.

One day when the weather was fine, the king along with his queen, sons, and ministers left the town for a relaxing time in the country. The king and queen rode upon an elephant while the sons, ministers, and retinue were mounted on beautiful horses. After half a day’s ride, they arrived at a place of thickly wooded forests resonant with birdsong while nearby blossomed a tapestry of flowers in rich variety. The king was pleased with the scenery and ordered a large encampment to be prepared for everyone’s enjoyment. The servants immediately unpacked everything, set up tents, and laid out a hearth of stones for cooking. Soon the ground was covered with tents as clouds billowed in the sky above. The servants bustled about, preparing a variety of foods and offering tea and liquor to everyone. Then the young people began to sing, dance, and play, transforming the encampment into a celestial realm. The king, queen, and ministers watched the entertainment while enjoying an eighteen course meal accompanied by wine and sake.

Then the three princes, in the full flush of their youth, picked up their bows and arrows and headed for the forest. As they walked along, they noticed a den in the dense woods. They crept up to it and saw inside a tigress sleeping beside her cubs. Great Sound and Great Deity laid arrows on their bows, making ready to kill the tigress, but Great Being stopped his brothers, saying that killing was completely wrong. When he looked into the cave again, Great Being noticed that the tigress was not able to move, for she had just given birth and she also feared that if she left to hunt for food, another animal might harm her cubs. Tormented by hunger, she lay on the ground unable even to lift her head. Great Being was moved to tears with compassion that arose from the depths of his heart. He asked his brothers, “What kind of food would save the tigress and her cubs?” They responded, “This kind of red Indian tiger eats the warm flesh and blood of a recent kill. So if you want to help her and the cubs, you must find flesh and blood that are fresh.”

Great Being thought for a moment: “It’s indeed true that to save the tigress and her cubs, warm flesh and blood are needed. But then I’d have to kill another living being, and that would mean killing one to save another. What else can I do?” He thought for a long while but did not find a solution. Then his brothers said, “We came out here to have a good time. It’s pointless to worry about this tigress and her cubs. It’s time to return to our parents.” And so they left.

As he followed his brothers back to the encampment, Great Being thought, “For a long time, I have been cycling in samsara, wasting countless lives, sometimes due to excessive desire, sometimes aversion, and sometimes ignorance. I have rarely met such an opportunity to accumulate merit. What real use is this body if not for the Dharma?” Finally he  decided, “This time I must be truly generous.”

Before he had gone very far with his brothers, he said to them, “Brothers, you two go on ahead. I have something to take care of and will catch up with you soon.”

He took the path to the tigress’s den quickening his pace. When he found the collapsed tigress, she was so exhausted that she could not even open her mouth. Great Living Being reached out his hand to touch her face, but she was so weakened she could not even bare her fangs. So the prince sharpened a splinter from a nearby tree and cut his body to draw blood, which he allowed the tigress to lick. Not long after, she opened her jaws and stood up. With a roar, she pounced on the prince and devoured him.

The two brothers waited a long time, but the youngest prince did not come, so they set out to find him. Reflecting on what he had said earlier, they had no doubt that he had returned to the tigress’s den. When they arrived and looked inside, there was nothing left of their brother but blood, bones, nails, and bits of clothing. The tigress had consumed him. At this sight, Great Sound and Great Deity immediately lost consciousness; it was a long time before they recovered their senses. The two gathered up the pieces of their brother’s clothing and, sobbing with deep sadness, set out for their parents’ encampment.

During this time, the queen was taking a nap and in a dream saw three doves flying high in the sky. As they fluttered around, a hawk struck and carried off the smallest one. Waking in terror, the queen immediately related her dream to the king. He replied, “Hearing your story, I believe the three doves are our three sons. The youngest of them, carried off by the hawk, is my most beloved son. I’m sure that something dreadful has happened to him.” So saying, the king immediately sent out servants to look everywhere for his son.

Soon, the two princes arrived and the king asked, “Did something bad happen to my beloved son? Do you have any news?” Choked with sadness, the two were unable to speak or even breathe for a while. Finally, they sighed deeply and told their parents that the tigress had eaten Great Being. Upon hearing this terrible news, the queen fainted right away. The king too was overwhelmed with immense sadness and tormented by sorrow. After a long while and with profound sighs, the two princes, the king, and the queen rushed to the place where the youngest prince had died. When they arrived at the opening of the den, what met their eyes were the bones and rivulets of blood left behind by the tigress. The queen recoiled, overcome with sobbing, and did not recover for a long while.

Meanwhile, the prince had been reborn as Great Courage (Nyingtob Chenpo). He wondered, “What did I do to be reborn here in the celestial realm of Tushita?” Through his divine eye, he thoroughly examined the five realms. Great Courage saw that, gathered around the bone fragments he had left behind, were his parents and two brothers. They were sunk in lamentation and completely miserable. He thought, “My parents are experiencing such unhappiness, it could threaten their very lives. To lighten their spirits, I’ll go talk to them.” He descended from space to the lofty sky and spoke words of encouragement to comfort his parents: “I’m the prince Great Being. After giving my body in generosity to the starving tigress, I was reborn in the celestial realm of Tushita.” With tears in their eyes, the king and queen said, “Son, you who are like our very heart, offering your body to the tigress was certainly most praiseworthy. But whom can we tell of our suffering in missing you?”

Great Courage replied, “Please do not be unhappy. The end of birth is disintegration, and the end of gathering is separation. No one can transcend this for it is the nature of things. It is the same for everyone. If you perform evil actions, you will fall into the hell realms; if you perform virtuous actions, you will be reborn in the higher realms. Therefore, diligently pursue virtue. Make aspiration prayers, and in the next life we will definitely meet in a celestial realm.” After a few more words, he disappeared. The king and queen became a little happier and made the commitment to pursue virtuous activity. They created a small casket covered with seven kinds of jewels in which they laid the bones of their son and a stupa was built over the place in which it was buried.

Story Courtesy: http://www.namo-buddha.org/namobuddha.html

Then we went to NamoBuddha Temple. We could see the beauty of Dhulikhel and Panauti from the temple. We then walked to the Buddhist Monastry, Thrangu Tashi Yangste Monastry. They reflected the combination of art and religion. 

After entering the monastery I was stunned. I had never entered any Buddhist Monastery before. Big statues of Buddha in golden colour, huge lights and Thanka painted all over the wall (though still not completed) were really amazing. After some photo shoots in the premises of Monastery we walked down to Panauti. 

On the way back at Batase we saw lots of Bhogate (English local name: Pomelo, Scientific name: Citrus maxima or Citrus grandi ). My friends asked the owner of the garden the price of the Bhogate and when the old lady answered 5 rupees for one. They were very happy and bought about 10 Bhogates. We cut two of them there and on our way back we walked eating them. Then suddenly one of the friend of mine gave an idea of having noodles (chow-chow) with the Bhogate. We bought two packets of chow-chow and the combination of chow-chow and Bhogate was awesome. 

The sun was setting and we were already late. We'd missed the last bus from Batase. So, now it was time to speed up. We started to walk rapidly and finally reached Panauti Bazaar. It was dark, my watch had ticked 6. We couldn't enjoy the beauty of Panauti as it was already dark. Finally, we caught the last bus from Panauti to Kathmandu.

We got on the bus and tired but still cheerful, we were on our way back home.